Design

Add Seasonal Flair to Your Space by Sewing Your Own Placemats 

With fall in full swing, and Thanksgiving just around the corner, I've been busy getting my table ready for entertaining by sewing a new tablecloth and handmade napkins. Today I'll be sewing placemats, which is such a fun way to add some seasonal flair to your space. 

Follow along with this step-by-step tutorial to learn how to sew placemats for your home. And with the holidays coming up, they also make great gifts! 

                                            

A note on fabric selection

Sewing placemats starts with great seasonally inspired fabrics. Choose either print or solid materials in colors and prints appropriate for the season. Most are on sale right now in the leading fabric retailers, so pick two prints or colors that work together. It is best to select fabrics that can be easily laundered, as they are likely to get soiled with food.
The placemats are made using three layers of materials: a top layer, a bottom layer that folds up around the edges to trim and finish each placemat and a layer of fusible interfacing that is sandwiched between the top and bottom layers. Or, you can use a pre-quilted fabric for the top layer, which would eliminate the need for any interfacing. Frankly, any type of fabrics can be used to make the placemats in the manner I am about to describe. You are limited only by your imagination here.

 

 How to sew placemats

What you will need to make four 12” by 18” placemats:

• 7/8 yard fabric for the bottom fabric
• 3/4 yard fabric for top layer
• 3/4 yard fusible flannel interfacing/batting
• Matching thread
• One roll fusible webbing – ½” wide, like Stitch Witchery®

Helpful tips:

Here are a few tips to keep in mind to make these placemats practical choice and give them a more finished appearance.

• Don’t forget to pre-wash your cotton fabric to ensure they retain their size and shape when the completed placemats are washed.
• Invest in a roll of fusible webbing like Stitch Witchery, which help to achieve the squarest mitered corners.
• Cut the top layer of fabric and interfacing just a bit bigger than needed. When fused together sometimes the combined layers have a tendency to shrink a bit. If cut slightly larger they can then be trimmed to the exact measurement needed. In the end this produces consistent sized placemats that are perfectly rectangular in shape.

Directions:

Step 1:

Cut the two layers of fabric and the interfacing/batting in the following dimensions: cut the bottom fabric so it measures 14 1/2” by 20 1/2”. This allows for a 5/8” double folded binding, or border, around the perimeter of each placemat. Cut the top fabric layer and the interfacing/batting 13” by 19”.

                                          

 Step 2:
 Fuse the interfacing/batting to the wrong side of the top fabric. Once fused, trim down to a 12” by 18” rectangle.

                            
Step 3:
Place the top fabric onto the wrong side of the bottom fabric centering it within the frame. Pin the layers together to prevent them from shifting about. The exposed bottom fabric edges should be 1 1/4” wide all around.

                            
 Step 4: 
Press one end of the bottom fabric over the top fabric and press in place. Repeat for the remaining three sides. Make sure the corners are well pressed so creases are visible when unfolded.

                            


                                          
 Step 5:
Unfold a corner. Using a fabric marking pen and ruler, mark 1 1/4” in from each edge. Note where the lines intersect. Now turn up the corner toward the intersecting point. The marked lines will help ensure the fold is at a perfect 45-degree angle. Press in place.
                                         
                           
 Step 6:
Turn the corner point under and press. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the remaining three corners.
                                                           
 Step 7:
Starting at one end turn out the fold. Notice the pressed crease. Now fold the raw edge toward the crease and press in place. Return the fold over the top fabric. This should create a 5/8” border trim. Repeat this process for the remaining 3 sides.

                                
Step 8:
Finesse the mitered corners where needed to make sure they join perfectly and re-press.

Step 9: 
Put a small 1/2” piece of the fusible webbing and tuck it inside the border at each mitered corner. Finesse the corner so the corner is square and each side of the border matches perfectly over the webbing.
                         
                                       

 Step 10: 
Press the corner to set the fusible webbing and to hold the corner in place. Repeat Steps 9 and 10 for the remaining three corners.

Step 11: 

Once all the corners are set, pin the border in place to ready it for the final stitching.

                                         

Step 12:

Stitch the border in place sewing very close to the border edge, pivoting at each corner. I used a straight stitch here, but a decorative stitch could also be used
                                                 

Step 13:

As a final enhancement, I chose to embellish the center lines of the leaves in the print with a row of feather stitching. This not only adds some dimension to the placemat it helps to ‘quilt’ or join the top layer to the bottom layer of fabric.
                                                       

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Getting Started in Pattern Drafting: How to Make a Dress Pattern

Pattern drafting can seem like a big, scary undertaking to many sewers. While it is definitely a large field of study that one can spend many years learning and perfecting, most anyone with an interest and at least advanced beginner sewing skills can get started understanding the basic theory of flat patternmaking.

Here are some tips on how to get started learning more about drafting your own designs.

                                     Selection of some pattern-making tools

1. Prep with a basic block.

Patternmaking is based on what is called a basic block/sloper. For home sewists, you will likely only be interested in creating a basic sloper for your own unique body shape and measurements. Most patternmaking textbooks recommend starting using a fitted bodice with a waist seam.
This basic block includes a waist and side dart in the bodice front as well as a waist and shoulder dart in the bodice back. From this basic block, you can vary necklines, sleeves, dart styles and more to create your own unique garments.

2. Now start collecting  the necessary tools and supplies.

At a minimum, you will need pencils, rulers, a variety of curves, pattern paper, scissors, pins, a tape measure, a tracing wheel, and muslin fabric. There are loads of other helpful patternmaking tools, but you can get started with just the essentials, adding to your collection as your experience, interest and budget dictates.

 
                                    Selection of patternmaking book resources

3. Find a helpful resource on how to draft basic pattern blocks.

The online Craftsy class, Patternmaking Basics: the Bodice Sloper, is a great place to start. You can also check your local library or bookstore for textbook resources — there are lots of good ones available.

4. Measure up!

Using the measurement chart from the patternmaking resource you are using, ask a friend to help you take and record your upper  body measurements. Then use those measurements to draft your personal bodice sloper as instructed in your patternmaking resource. Yes, there will be a few math calculations, but nothing too scary or difficult!

5. Make it perfect.

Be sure to take the time to true and balance your bodice sloper. Some things you need to watch for include:

• The center front and center back need to be on grainline.
• The bust level on the bodice front needs to be on perfect crossgrain.
• The side seams of your bodice front and back need to be the identical length, and also the identical angle so the garment will hang correctly on the body.
• The armholes should look rather like a horseshoe, and the back armhole should be approximately 1/2 inch longer than the front armhole to create the right shape for the sleeve to hang properly
• True all darts

6. Don’t be shy, add a skirt!

Once you have finished your bodice sloper, the next step is to make a basic skirt sloper. These two slopers together can be used to create a variety of other sloper styles, including dress patterns. Repeat steps 3 and 4 above using your lower body measurements to create your skirt sloper.

7. Make it your own.

Now the fun begins! Once you have a sloper for your bodice and skirt, you can begin changing the dart types and placements to create designs that are pleasing to your personal taste. Most textbooks recommend starting by repositioning darts to new locations on the sloper. Don’t forget to add seam allowances, and the appropriate amount of wearing and design ease to your final pattern designs.
Look to RTW garments or other patterns for inspiration in creating your own designs. As you gain more experience you will be able to take on more and more complex drafting tasks. Be sure to check out the wide selection of online Craftsy patternmaking courses that are available to help refine your skills. Good luck, and have fun!

Have you ever tried any patternmaking? What was your favorite design from your self-drafted patterns? 

 

 

A-Line Skirt Sewing Tutorial: 7 Simple Steps

An A-line skirt is a classic shape deserving of a spot in your closet. They can be dressed up or down, and can transition from summer to fall. Best of all, the simple shape means you can whip up a new skirt in an afternoon!

Below we share a simple A-line skirt sewing tutorial. For more in-depth instruction, check out the online class Design & Sew an A-Line Skirt. You learn how to tailor your A-line skirt to your shape and style, plus multiple variations on a timeless look!

Here’s an easy a-line skirt sewing tutorial:

Pattern:  I used the skirt pattern in Sew U: The Built by Wendy Guide to Making Your Own Wardrobe by Wendy Mullin. There are also many great A-line skirt patterns available on Craftsy.

Fabric: A-line skirts can be made from a variety of fabrics. Most mid- to heavyweight wovens should work. I used a dark denim.

Notions: You’ll need a 7” zipper and thread to match your fabric.

Here’s how to sew your A-line skirt:

Step 1: Prepare your fabric by washing and drying according to the care instructions. Cut out your pattern pieces. My pattern has six pieces: skirt front, two skirt backs and three facing pieces.

 

Step 2: With right sides together, pin the skirt back pieces together. Sew the center back seam from the hem up to the notch indicating zipper placement. Baste the seam from the notch up to the waist. Finish the raw edges of the center back seam and press the seam open. I used pinking shears on all of the seams to avoid adding any bulk to the already bulky fabric.

 

Step 3: Install the zipper. With the zipper unzipped, place the zipper facedown on the seam allowance. The top stop should be 3/4” from the top edge of the skirt, and the zipper teeth should be centered on the center back seam. Baste the zipper to the seam allowance. Close the zipper and repeat on the other side. On the right side of the garment, use your sewing machine’s zipper foot to topstitch around the zipper using a 1/4” seam allowance. Remove the basting stitches.

                  

Step 4: Sew the front and back darts. Press the darts toward the center of the garment.

Step 5: With right sides together, pin the skirt back to the skirt front, matching any notches. Sew. Finish the raw edges of the seams and press the seams open.

     

                         


 

Step 6: With right sides together, pin the front facing to the back facing. Sew the side seams together and press them open. Finish the bottom edge of the facing. With right sides together, sew the facing to the skirt waist. Turn the facing to the inside of the skirt, and press. Use a couple of stitches to tack the facing edges to the zipper tape.

Step 7: Lastly, hem the skirt to the desired length.

Method 1

Assembling a Mental Toolkit

1. 
   
   
   1.Learn about drawing. You don’t need to be a master illustrator; a lot of designers use a funky personal style when they design. That said, you do need to be able to communicate your vision visually.^[1] Take a drawing class, study some books, or just practice, practice, practice.^[2]
   

   • The most important part of learning any new skill is just doing it a lot. Set aside 30 minutes every day to practice drawing.
   • A good book to reference is Mark Kistler’s You Can Draw in 30 Days.
2. 
   2.Learn about sewing. Even if you don’t want to be the one to actually sew your designs, you need to know about sewing. Understanding the possibilities presented by your medium is an important part of being able to come up with innovative, exciting ideas.^[3]
   

   • Many craft stores like Jo-Ann Fabric offer relatively cheap sewing classes.
   • Studying pattern making is a must if you intend to sew your own garments.^[4] You will need to know how a garment is physically assembled. Knowing how to break a design down into shapes is a crucial part of being able to sew a garment.
   • Buy some simple patterns at a craft store to practice with.
3. 
   
   
   3.Learn about design. If you want to produce innovative designs, you have to know about design theory.^[5] Molly Bang’s book Picture This: How Pictures Work is a great place to start. It will help you learn to think like a designer.
   

   • Don’t limit yourself to studying fashion design exclusively. The principles of design theory apply across all sorts of disciplines. It may surprise you how much studying something like typography can teach you about fashion design.^[6]
4.  
   4.Learn about fashion. If you want to be a fashion designer, you need to learn all you can about the world of fashion. You may think of yourself as a very stylish person, but knowing how to dress yourself well is only the tip of the iceberg.^[7] If you are designing based on what is hot right now, by the time your design is complete it might already be out of style. Professional fashion designers are constantly thinking ahead, to what the next big thing will be.^[8]
   

   • Watch videos or look at pictures from high-profile fashion shows online, or go in person if one is happening near where you live. Professional designers design their seasonal collections months in advance, so these shows can give you an idea of what kinds of trends will be trickling down into commercial fashion in the future.
   •  
5.               
   
   
   5.Learn about technology and resources. There are more tools available to designers now than there ever have been before. On top of knowing your way around a sketchbook and a sewing machine, you will need to know your way around Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator.
   

   • Websites like Linda.com or Tuts+ are good online resources.
   • If you want to do your sketching on a computer instead of in a sketchbook, you will need to purchase a good pen tablet, such as a Wacom.

Method 2

Dreaming Up Designs

1.             
   
   
   1.Find your inspiration. What are you passionate about? What makes you itch to create? It might be a particular fabric, a work of visual art you saw, something you want but can’t seem to find in stores, a garment you saw on the street, a particular color pattern, a retro trend you want to bring back, or any number of other things. There is no right way to get inspired. The important thing is to find something that excites you.
   

   • Consider your customer. What kind of person do you imagine buying your designs? What does that kind of person need in a garment?
   • Combining existing styles and trends can be an interesting way to generate new looks. What would it be like to blend military elements with softer, more flowy ones? What would 1990s meets 1930s look like? How can you incorporate menswear elements into women swear?
2.           
   
   
   2.Consider fabric. Do you want a stretchy material, or something with less give? Is your design flowy, or rigid and architectural? Should the fabric be smooth, or textural? If your original inspiration was an amazing fabric you found, you already have this covered. Otherwise, think about what kind of material your design demands.
   

   • Consider embellishments such as buttons, lace, beads or embroidery floss as well. These can often impact your fabric choice.
3.             
   
   
   3.Consider color and pattern. A lot of the impact of your design hinges on your use of color and pattern. Think about the garment's intended purpose and how you imagine someone wearing it. Consider your customer, and what she might want to wear. Most of all, go with what you think looks good. There are no hard and fast rules here. You are the designer, and you should be true to yourself above all things.
   

   • Look at a color wheel. Remember, contrasting colors (the ones across the color wheel from each other) make each other stand out. This can add a dramatic affect to your design, but if not handled well it can also be jarring and off-putting.^[9]
   • Get some paint swatches from a paint store, and use them to experiment with different color combinations before you purchase fabric.

Method 3

Drawing Your Design on a Croquis

1.                
   
   
   1.Draw the outline of a person. When designing clothes, it’s important to think about how your garment will look on the body. This is why most designers draw their designs onto a human form. It can be intimidating and time-consuming to have to draw a figure from scratch every time you make a new design, so many designers use a croquis.^[10] This just means a template you can use each time you sketch out a new garment. You will need to start by drawing the outline of a person in pencil. This is an intimidating prospect, but it doesn’t need to be difficult.
   

   • If you’re not too daunted, freehand it. The idea here is not to be anatomically correct, and most designers’ croquis drawings are rendered in some kind of personal style. Your design will look even more unique on a figure you drew yourself. Don’t worry about small details; think of your drawing as a 2-dimensional mannequin.
   • If you don’t feel up to the task of drawing a human figure from scratch, use someone else’s work. Trace an image from a book or a magazine, or download one of the hundreds of free croquis templates you can find online.^[11][12]
   • Many designers use something called the 9 heads method to make sure their drawings are evenly proportioned.^[13] The idea is to use a head as a unit of measure, and to draw a body that measures nine heads from the feet to the top of the neck.^[14]
     • Draw a straight vertical line, and divide it into 10 equal parts. This will be your guide as you draw.
     • Section 1 starts just under the head, and measures the body from the top of the neck to the middle of the chest; section 2 measures from the middle of the chest to the waist; section 3 from the waist to the bottom of the hips; section 4 from the bottom of the waist to mid-thigh, section 5 from mid-thigh to knee, section 6 from knee to upper calve, section 7 from upper calve to mid-calve, section 8 from mid-calve to ankle, and section 9 measures the foot.^[15]
2.                 
   2.Retrace the figure in dark pen. You are going to need to be able to trace this drawing onto another piece of paper laid on top of it. To make that possible, you’ll have to retrace the lines of your figure drawing with a dark pen.^[16]
3.              
   
   
   3.Trace the figure onto another sheet of paper. For this step you will need to put down the pen and pick up a pencil again. Lay another piece of plain white paper on top of the croquis you just drew. You should be able to see it relatively well, as long as you used a dark pen and your paper isn’t too thick.^[17]
   

   • If you have a lightbox, this would be a good time to use it. Just lay the croquis onto the lightbox, put the blank sheet of paper on top of it, turn the lightbox, on, and trace away.
   • If you don’t have a lightbox and are having trouble seeing through your paper, try taping the two sheets of paper to a window on a bright day. You’ll have to trace at an odd angle, but the effect is basically the same as if you used a lightbox.
4.               
   
   
   4.Start sketching your design. Still using your pencil so you can erase inevitable mistakes, lightly draw the garment you’ve been imagining. Start with more general things like the basic shape of the garment, and gradually add details as it takes form. When you are satisfied, retrace the whole drawing in pen.^[18]
5.               
   
   
   5.Color your design. You can use whatever drawing materials you want for this step. Markers and colored pencils work particularly well, since they lend themselves to layering. Start with the lightest colors you plan on using, and shade in larger areas with long, consistent strokes that move in the same direction as the fabric. Gradually incorporate darker colors, patterns, and shadow as you go.^[19][20]
6.                
   
   
   6.Repeat as wanted. Now that you have a croquis, starting a new design should be much faster. Just trace the figure, and get going.

Method 4

Sewing

1.               
   
   
   1.Make a dummy. You will need a dressmaking dummy to be able to see the garment as you work on it, and make sure it fits a human form. If you don’t have one, you can create a makeshift one yourself, in your own size.^[21]
   

   • Put on a shirt that you don’t want, and cover it completely with duct tape while wearing it. This will create a stiff duct tape form in the shape of your body.
   • Remove it by cutting it down the side, from your hip to your armpit, and then up along the sleeve.
   • Tape back over the cut to make the form whole again. Stuff it with newspaper, and close up the bottom, neck, and sleeves with more duct tape. You can decide whether to keep the arms, or cut them off.
2.                   
   
   
   2. Draw your pattern on butcher paper. Use a pencil in case of mistakes, and label each section to avoid confusion later. Remember the old carpenters’ adage: measure twice, cut once. You can waste a lot of time with a single mistake. When you’re done, cut out the shapes.^[22]
   

   • Ideally you should know a thing or two about pattern making before attempting this, but you don’t have to be an expert. You do need to be able to envision how your garment will be put together, however, and have the skills to execute it.^[23][24]
3.             
   
   
   3. Recreate the pattern on muslin. Lay the butcher paper pieces of your pattern onto muslin, and trace them. Cut these out too, and pin them into the basic shape of your garment.^[25]
4.                  
   
   
   4. Sew your mock-up. Introduce your pinned muslin garment to your sewing machine. Remove the pins, and put the garment on a mannequin, or on your own body if you are designing for yourself.
5.               
   
   
   5. Evaluate the garment. Look at how it fits. Think about the shape. What’s working? What isn’t? Take notes, make sketches, draw on or cut the muslin, or whatever helps you make sense of the changes you want to make.^[26]
6.                  
   
   
   6.Decide what your next step is. How close is the mock-up to what you had envisioned? Are you ready to move forward with this design? Do you need to make another before you try it with nicer fabric? Depending on how your mock-up looks, you may want to go back to the drawing board completely, or you may be ready to move on to sewing the actual garment.^[27]
7.                     
   
   
   7.Move on to the real thing. It’s time to bring your design to life. Proceed as you did with the muslin mock-up.^[28][29] Remember, you are going to make mistakes, especially the first few times around. Make sure you buy more fabric than you think you need, give yourself lots of extra time, and always double-check your measurements. Things will not always go according to plan. Be prepared to problem solve, or tweak your design as you go. Sometimes the most exciting innovations come from mistakes.

Method 5

Selling Your Work

1.               
   
   
   1.Build a portfolio. Document your work in photographs as you go. This is how you will sell yourself as a designer as your career progresses. Keep in mind that you want to showcase your versatility, while also demonstrating that you have a unique voice and point of view. There should be a variety of pieces in your portfolio, but they should all scream “you.”^[30][31]
   

   • Take quality photographs. Don’t just lay the dress you made on your bed and take a poorly lit picture with your phone. Put your garments on live models, make sure they are well lit (if you don’t have the resources to do this inside, go outside on slightly overcast day—this will give you even lighting), use a decent camera, and pay attention to details like hair, makeup, and accessories. The way you present your work plays a huge roll in the impact it creates.^[32]
2.                 
   
   
   3.Do some research. Are there independent clothing boutiques in your area that sell clothes with an aesthetic similar to yours? Are there websites that sell clothes that remind you of your own? Try to find designers doing work that reminds you of yours, or of what you would like your designs to evolve into. Observe their tactics.
3.                
   
   
   3.Use online resources. Some websites will fabricate your designs for you, if they or their users are sufficiently impressed. Look into websites like Gamz and Fabricly if you think you have a killer design that you’re not up to sewing on your own.^[33]
   

   • If you are more of a graphic designer, but think your work would look great on clothing, look into sites like RedBubble, that can print your artwork on a variety of different products.
4.              
   
   
   4.Build a website. If you want to sell your clothes, the world must know about your genius. Almost anyone can design a beautiful website these days; use a platform like Squarespace to create a site to display your portfolio. Keep it simple and elegant. You want to the focus to be on your clothing design, not your web design.
5.               
   
   
   5.Brand yourself. Develop a social media presence. Get on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, Tumbler, the works. You need to get eyes on your work, above and beyond all else. Worry about selling things later. Right now, you need to create a buzz.^[34][35]